Himal Press 
KATHMANDU: Mount Manaslu (8,163m), the world’s eighth-highest mountain, is seeing a sharp rise in climbing activity in recent years as more climbers choose the peak as their first 8,000-meter expedition.
The number of climbing permits issued for Manaslu has more than doubled in the past six years, rising from 203 in 2021 to 480 in 2026. The Department of Tourism issued 318 climbing permits for Manaslu in 2022, 317 in 2023, 310 in 2024 and 377 in 2025.
The department issued 492 permits for Everest this spring.
IFMGA mountain guide Gelje Sherpa, who has led several expeditions to Manaslu, said Manaslu is attracting more climbers because the mountain has built a reputation as a comparatively accessible 8,000-meter peak.
“Manaslu has become the mountain climbers choose for their first 8,000-meter expedition,” Sherpa said, pointing to its relatively straightforward standard route, established climbing infrastructure and favorable autumn conditions. “The other reason is that major expedition operators are recommending the mountain as a stepping stone for climbers planning to attempt Everest or Lhotse.”
According to Sherpa, Manaslu’s technical demands are generally regarded as more manageable than those of several other 8,000-meter peaks.
First climbed on May 9, 1956, by Toshio Imanishi of Japan and Gyalzen Norbu of Nepal as part of a Japanese expedition, Manaslu’s reputation among climbers has changed significantly over the years. Once widely known as the ‘killer mountain’, it has developed a much stronger commercial climbing infrastructure in recent years. The mountain is also known for its high summit success compared to its other 8,000-meter peers in Nepal.
According to Sherpa, Manaslu’s standard climbing route is considered relatively straightforward by 8,000-meter standards. “Although climbers still face steep sections, crevasses, avalanche hazards and an exposed final ridge on the way to the true summit, the route has become well-established with the growth in the number of commercial expeditions,” he added.
This gives Manaslu an advantage over neighboring peaks such as Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I for climbers looking for their first 8,000-meter summit. According to Sherpa, Dhaulagiri’s standard Northeast Ridge route is exposed to strong winds and abrupt weather changes, and involves steep ice and rock sections. “Climbing Annapurna I, on the other hand, involves complex navigation through glacier terrains and exposed snow slopes,” he said. “Compared with Dhaulagiri and Annapurna, Manaslu offers a more predictable climbing experience.”
Unlike Everest, which is primarily climbed in spring, Manaslu’s major commercial season comes in autumn. September and October generally provide clearer skies, lower precipitation and longer weather windows. “The post-monsoon period also allows the snow to settle and makes route preparation more predictable,” Sherpa added.
According to Sherpa, a shorter climbing duration also makes the mountain attractive among climbers. “Manaslu can be climbed in less than a month. A well-acclimatized climber can reach the summit in just around two weeks,” Sherpa said.
